Зачем учиться осознанному потреблению в одежде

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Онлайн-магазины и работающие допоздна мегамоллы, курьерская доставка товаров и одежда по цене пары чашек кофе… Никогда еще шопинг не был настолько доступным. Впрочем, у этой медали есть и обратная сторона: колоссальный урон для экологии и негативное влияние на психическое состояние. Как отказаться от увлечения «быстрой модой»?

Человек среди людей 

Зачем учиться осознанному потреблению в одежде

Несколько тысяч лет назад одежда стала показателем социального статуса, а до этого выполняла лишь практическую функцию защиты от холода и солнца. Со временем красивые вещи перестали быть привилегией обеспеченных слоев населения: произошел переход к машинному производству, появился пошив в нескольких размерах сразу.

В 1960-е молодежь выступала против буржуазных ценностей и создавала новые субкультуры. Мировая мода предложила студентам, не располагающим большими средствами, недорогую одежду, которая помогала им самовыражаться и противопоставлять себя старшему поколению. Мода стала общедоступной: если в 1995 году посылку с вещами ждали в среднем 9 дней, то сейчас курьеры доставят любой заказ в течение 24 часов.

Обратная сторона fast fashion

Несколько десятилетий назад модные дома стали выпускать коллекции раз в сезон, появилось понятие трендов. В 1980-90-е многие бренды масс-маркета стали стремительно сокращать цикл производства одежды. Сегодня от разработки изделий, похожих на вещи с последнего модного показа, до старта их продаж проходит от двух до четырех недель. Новые модели не задерживаются в магазинах дольше месяца.

У «быстрой моды» есть и недостатки: полиэстер и вискоза производятся из нефтепродуктов и целлюлозы, а в процессе их обработки и окраски применяются химикаты и тяжелые металлы. Невероятный урон экологии наносят токсичные отходы и массовое избавление от быстро пришедшей в негодность одежды и обуви, огромную часть которой невозможно переработать из-за смешанного состава.

Низкая стоимость вещей достигается не только за счет экономии на тканях

Известные нам бренды масс-маркета не используют материалы дороже 5 долларов за метр, поэтому некоторые изделия получаются буквально одноразовыми и приходят в негодность после нескольких стирок. Это выгодно производителю: тем быстрее покупатели придут в магазин, чтобы обновить гардероб.

Низкая стоимость вещей достигается не только за счет экономии на тканях. Способствуют этому и мизерная зарплата швей, и опасные условия труда на фабриках, и привлечение к работе детей. В 2013 году стало известно, что в нелегальных мастерских одного бренда в Буэнос-Айресе по 16 часов без перерывов работали не только взрослые, но и дети. В апреле того же года в Бангладеш обрушилась огромная швейная фабрика, у которой были контракты с крупными брендами. В результате трагедии погибли 1130 человек, среди которых были и дети, пришедшие с матерями на работу.

Меняя сознание

Многие начинают практиковать осознанное потребление: уже в прошлом году исследование международного холдинга «Ромир» показало, что 60% россиян предпочитают вдумчивый шопинг. Акцент на качестве, а не на количестве помогает не только освободить пространство в шкафу и в доме, но и избавиться от «мусора» в голове.

Тщательнее составляя гардероб, мы довольно скоро понимаем, что наш стиль меняется к лучшему. Это неудивительно: избавившись от привычки руководствоваться модными веяниями и поднимать себе настроение покупками, мы больше прислушиваемся к своим ощущениям и внимательнее выбираем каждую вещь. Благодаря этому появляется возможность найти себя настоящего.

Ощущение комфорта от гармонии внутреннего и внешнего благоприятно сказывается и на общении: мы чувствуем себя увереннее в любимой и красивой одежде, подчеркивающей наши достоинства и отражающей наше самоощущение. В этом плане внимание к образу можно рассматривать и как заботу о своем психологическом здоровье.

«У меня есть деньги только на масс-маркет»

Не стоит думать, что осознанный подход к моде обходится дорого. Он не означает переход на вещи исключительно из недешевого органического хлопка. Равноценная, но более этичная замена масс-маркету, — ресейл. На площадках, специализирующихся на перепродаже одежды, можно найти абсолютно новые или пару раз надетые вещи люксовых брендов по приемлемым ценам. Изготовленные из качественных материалов и грамотно пошитые, они смогут прослужить не один сезон, особенно если выбирать лаконичные модели или нейтральные цвета.

Важно, что перепродажа одежды и обуви не несет вреда для экологии, ведь на производство вещей не тратятся природные ресурсы. Не стоит стыдиться ресейла: в путешествиях мы спим на том же белье, что и миллионы человек до нас, а в ресторане далеко не первыми пользуемся столовыми приборами, которые принес официант.

Зачем учиться осознанному потреблению в одежде

Бесценные экземпляры

Особо искушенные в моде ценят винтажные вещи. Нередко именно джинсы, пошитые в 1980-х или 1990-х, отличаются более плотной тканью и лучшей посадкой. А винтажная сумка способна преобразить как дневной аутфит, так и вечерний наряд, и шансы встретить кого-то с таким же аксессуаром близки к нулю. Винтаж известен своим высоким качеством, но при этом ценовой диапазон позволяет стать обладателем уникальной вещи любому желающему.

Поможет специалист

Осознанному потреблению одежды и обуви поможет разбор гардероба со стилистом. Это вовсе не роскошь, доступная только любителям дорогих дизайнерских экземпляров. Эксперт поможет составить функциональный набор одежды любой ценовой категории. Он подскажет, от каких вещей пора избавиться, поскольку они устарели, не украшают или плохо сидят.

Стилист дает консультацию насчет будущих покупок и обучает, как выбирать вещи, чтобы они сочетались с новым гардеробом. Наличие капсулы: небольшого количества идеально подходящих друг к другу одежды и аксессуаров — позволяет бесконечно составлять разнообразные комплекты на выход.

Получать, отдавая

За последние пять лет производители одежды стали более ответственно относиться к экологии. Некоторые бренды практикуют трейд-ин: в их магазины можно принести ненужную одежду и постельное белье любой марки и получить купон на скидку. Текстильные изделия в хорошем состоянии отправляются в секонд-хенды, а из остального делают материалы для уборки или отправляют в переработку.

Часто бывает очень полезно пересмотреть привычки и начать ответственнее относиться к своей жизни: заботиться о себе, быть добрее к миру и осознаннее в повседневных действиях.

Зачем учиться осознанному потреблению в одежде

Об авторе

Заира Келигова — сооснователь социального маркетплейса Oskelly.

Источник: psychologies.ru

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