Ну приехали: как тема мигрантов отразилась в моде

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Ну приехали: как тема мигрантов отразилась в моде

Ну приехали: как тема мигрантов отразилась в моде

Екатерина Ткаченко
Дизайнер

Мой Instagram носит подзаголовок Fashion Immigrant. 7 лет назад я приехала в Италию учиться и сначала стала иммигрантом, потом дизайнером одежды, а потом еще много кем (но это уже совсем другая история). После революции некоторые мои родственники бежали в Канаду, а остальная часть семьи переселилась из Сибири в Краснодар, где я и родилась. В Италии я посещаю миграционную полицию минимум два раза в год (не состояла, не привлекалась, просто «здесь так заведено»). Так уж вышло, что тема миграции, переселений, путешествий, странствий и wonderlust для меня — часть ДНК. Как творческого, так и генетического.

Мода — зеркало социальной жизни общества, и вопрос миграции, который сейчас стоит как никогда остро из-за бума беженцев из африканских стран, находит отражение и на подиумах, и в других сферах креативной деятельности. Многие дизайнеры и художники творчески осмысливают это явление, но все же, будучи иммигрантом от моды, я хочу поговорить о показе коллекции на весну и лето 2019 одного из фаворитов Большого Подиума — Дриса Ван Нотена, так как нашла в показе марки Dries van Noten много общего с моей тематикой.

  • Ну приехали: как тема мигрантов отразилась в моде
  • Ну приехали: как тема мигрантов отразилась в моде
  • Тенденции

    Как это по‑русски: названия 10 самых актуальных моделей сумок нашего времени

  • Тенденции

    Всё гениальное просто! 7 модных ошибок, которые никогда не совершают француженки

В этой коллекции есть много о миграции. О мигрантах-перелетных птицах и мигрантах-беженцах из южных стран.

View this post on Instagram

Too much of Dries Does not exist @driesvannoten SS19 by #ekaterinatkachenko #acrylicpainting #acrylic #fashion #fashionillustrator #fashionillusyration #illustration #illustrator #handdrawn #ss19 #look #fashiondesign #driesvannoten #pfw

A post shared by Fashion Immigrant (@ekaterina.tkachenko_) on Oct 19, 2018 at 4:41am PDT

Игра в слова умницы Дриса: отсылки к защитной экипировке и костюмам биозащиты виртуозно замиксованы с пестрой этнической цветовой гаммой, принтами, напоминающими крылья тропических бабочек, и экзотическим оперением райских птиц.

  • Ну приехали: как тема мигрантов отразилась в моде
  • Ну приехали: как тема мигрантов отразилась в моде

Мы видим модное кораблекрушение от Дриса ван Нотена: девица-робинзон собрала разбросанные по пляжу драгоценности из разбитых пиратских сундуков, обрывки рыбацких сетей, куски парусины и пластика, подвязалась шнурами корабельной оснастки, накинула сверху рыбацкий анорак, украсила прическу пером райской птицы — и вот она, королева кутюрного острова сокровищ! К слову, шнурки, использованные в коллекции, напомнили мне о потрясающей паре обуви, увиденной мной на ретроспективной выставке марки Etro в музее MUDEC в Милане (об этом модном доме хочу поговорить в следующий раз).

Ну приехали: как тема мигрантов отразилась в моде

Идем дальше. Видим экологическую акцию фотографа Michael Dyrland — серфинг в костюмах химзащиты: как скоро это нас ожидает?

Ну приехали: как тема мигрантов отразилась в моде

Пожалуй, пришло время задуматься.

Ваша Катя Ткаченко

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